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Unread 30-10-2007, 03:06 PM   #1
shotter
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Default Holden Rodeo Error Codes

I know this isn't a commodore questions but it is a holden question... So im almost there. My g/f 89 rodeo just died while driving and i really want to pull the error codes out before i start trying to replace parts. I have been told that there is a 3pin green connector under the dash. Can anyone give me more details than that? I know with my VN you can just jump 2 pins on the ALDL connector and it will flash the codes at you. Is it the same story with the rodeo?
Any help would be fantastic.
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Unread 30-10-2007, 03:58 PM   #2
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Is it petrol? If so, my money is on the fuel pump, they are notorious for crapping themselves in the Rodeo. I don't think you can read the codes like a Commodore, you may need a scantool.
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Unread 30-10-2007, 07:18 PM   #3
shotter
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yea it's a 2.6 petrol. the fuel pump has been running fairly quickly and noisy. My money was on that but i dont wanna change it and then find it's still happening. The problem was the car died just out of the blue. and wouldn't start. and after 2 hours it just started first time. idled for about 10 seconds then died again. Started it again and i towed it home and kept reving it and it didn't die. So im confused.
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Unread 31-10-2007, 09:51 AM   #4
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Can you belt the petrol tank while cranking like you can in a commodore?
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Unread 31-10-2007, 10:11 AM   #5
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is it injected or carby?
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Unread 31-10-2007, 11:27 AM   #6
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it's injected. and it starts at the moment but i dont want to take it for a drive and have it just die again.
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Unread 31-10-2007, 12:13 PM   #7
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fuel pump, also check there is no holes in air intake pipe, my mate has same rodeo plastic pipe got a hole in it due to being brittle, ran like a pig as air flow meter is on air box and not throttle body.
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Unread 31-10-2007, 04:23 PM   #8
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The Rodeo fuel pump is a piece of shit. A popular fitment is the VL fuel pump, lasts longer and is cheaper. I was doing a fuel pump every 12 months in the old workshop Rodeo we had where I used to work.
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Unread 01-11-2007, 11:14 AM   #9
shotter
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so you guys think i should just replace the pump and not worry about paying the $120 to get it checked out. Also how do you get to the pump. it looks like you either have to take the tray off or drop the tank out. And will the vl pump fit right in or will i have to change things?
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Unread 01-11-2007, 11:31 AM   #10
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It's been about 5 years since I did it, can't remember if it was a straight swap or not, I think the way it was held in was slightly different. You have to undo the tank and drop it down a bit if it is a well body. If it's a tray back, you can get to it over the chassis rail.
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Unread 01-11-2007, 11:52 AM   #11
shotter
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naa it's a well body. So you think just do the pump. It is spinning really fast and loud. And in made a really wierd noise when it primed up
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Unread 01-11-2007, 12:42 PM   #12
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I would do the pump.
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Unread 01-11-2007, 02:04 PM   #13
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ok i will order one and throw it in. Thanks everyone
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Unread 11-11-2007, 02:29 PM   #14
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abit late maybe?
You can check those codes for free!!!
just take off the kick panel on the drivers side and look for a male and female connector, while the key is turned to the ignition position (like, the engine is not on), connect these and they will flash your code on the "check engine light".

so if it flashes once, then pauses for a longer time and flashes 3 times its a code 13. i also know that they flash 12-12-12 and then are followed by the real code.
cheers
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Unread 12-11-2007, 08:21 AM   #15
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Have you got any more details? Like how many pins these connectors have?
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Unread 12-11-2007, 09:45 AM   #16
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Default error codes

easy- no pins, just a female and a male both are single wire connecters and will fit into each other,i am assuming this is the 4ze1 engine. I have the exact same rodeo.
Codes : http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszucel.shtml


If you dont have a male and female: (i stole this from another site).

To get the fault codes displayed, look for your ALDL plug, and bridge the black with yellow stripe wire, and the black with red stripe wire with a paperclip.
Some looms may also have a male and a female plug of the same wires nearby, that can be connected.
with the ignition switched on, and the wires connected, the engine light will flash.
Count the flashes to work out the codes.
So, 1 flash followed by 2 flashes would be code 12,
3 flashes followed by 1 flash would be code 31, ect ect
each code will be displayed 3 times, before going to the next code, and when its finished displaying all the codes, it'll cycle again.


Good luck.
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Unread 17-11-2007, 11:07 PM   #17
shotter
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Thank's mate i will have to give that a go. A little update. I put a new fuel pump in and a new fuel filter. Drove the ute around at night and gave it a hard time and it didn't miss a beat. Then took it for a drive around lunch time and after about 5 minutes it did the same thing again and just stopped. So i pulled over and checked a few things. I found that the coil wasn't giving out a spark. At all. So i towed it home and as soon as i got it home i tryed the test again and it sparked and started with no problems. Has anyone come accross this? And does anyone have an idea of what i should replace?
Thank You
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Unread 21-11-2007, 02:05 PM   #18
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Default Thats a bastard

Coils for these are cheap, maybe just get one from a commercial wrecker i changed mine for 70 bucks brand new from bursons.

Could be your dissy too the seals get oily and expand and then stuff up, maybe a crack in the cap.
Change the leads for what its worth too.

another thing about these, make sure everything is grounded properly because this can make a massive difference.
good luck
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Unread 22-11-2007, 09:21 AM   #19
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Any chance it could be the crank angle sensor?
And if the coil or the crank angle sensor failed, Would they both make the engine light come on?

Last edited by shotter; 22-11-2007 at 09:25 AM..
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Unread 26-11-2007, 04:25 PM   #20
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Im not exactly sure, but when 1 sensor is cactus, you will get a chain reaction of error messages. Did you manage to retrieve any error codes?
Could be the throttle position sensor..
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Unread 27-11-2007, 03:25 PM   #21
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naa only the 12 code because the battery went flat.
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Unread 13-12-2007, 12:20 PM   #22
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Well got the coil pack, fitted it and the car started. Thats a good start. The next day it died again. But atleast i got an error code out of it. 41 the CAS is stuffed. not happy. But atleast now i know whats wrong.
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